The Massif du Mézenc lies between the Haute-Loire and the Ardèche in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. At more than 1100 metres of altitude, the Massif surrounds the Mézenc mountain, which dominates it, at an altitude of 1753 metres. You are probably more familiar with Mont Gerbier de Jonc, its famous neighbour, from which the Loire River flows. Part of the massif is located in the Monts d'Ardèche Regional Nature Park. The region is subjected to an atypical climate. At this altitude, snow falls in winter, accompanied by a powerful wind called "la Burle". This wind paralyses the Massif by pushing the snow onto the roads, which then become impassable. The snow seeps through the smallest openings in the buildings, so that raising livestock here requires very specific infrastructures to protect animals and fodder from the Burle!
Geographical situation of the Massif, its altitude and its wind... are at the origin of a rich and varied vegetation. We find here the Alpine fennel, called here Cistre. Right. Ok... But what does all this have to do with the Fin Gras du Mézenc, you might ask? The vegetation of the Massif is what makes the breeding here so special. The Cistre is a plant which is generally found in mountainous massifs, like the Alps. The plant is not eaten by the cows in the pasture, but once dried, the ladies love it. In contrast to the Alps, the Massif du Mézenc not only has the altitude for the development of this plant, but also large plateaus where it is possible to mow, so that Cistre is part of the winter menu of ruminants. Clearly, the animals raised on the Massif du Mézenc are the only ones in France, and perhaps even beyond, to consume exceptional hay, composed of various plants that give a unique taste to the meat!
The Cistre gives an aniseed flavour to Mezenc hay
After having discussed about the geographical, climatic and botanical context of this amazing massif, we still have to tell you about the product: the famous Fin Gras! It is a marbled meat resulting from the breeding of suckling cattle on the Massif. Historically, the region was reserved for sheep breeders, who brought their herds there for summer pastures. At the same time, working oxen occupied the area. The farmers kept oxen when they were too old for ploughing. They fattened them in buildings in winter with unlimited hay. The best hay was reserved for them to ensure optimal fattening (the animals were never allowed to lose weight) until they were slaughtered for Easter. It was therefore a seasonal production and has remained so. In this area, the tradition of fattened oxen at Easter dates back to at least the 17th century and the reputation of this typical product from this region was famous as far away as Saint-Etienne, Lyon and even Marseille at that time.
Fin Gras du Mézenc obtained its Appellation in 2006 (then the PDO in 2013). Today, few breeders still fatten oxen, most prefer heifers, whose raising is easier to manage (no castration and shorter fattening time). In 2020, 1222 animals were sold as Fin Gras, 1201 of which were heifers. The Appellation gives the designation of "Fin Gras" to oxen of at least 30 months or heifers of at least 24 months of age of the breeds (pure or crossbred) Salers, Limousin, Aubrac or Charolais (breeds initially established in the region), reared on the Massif du Mézenc. The specifications require that the animals are fed with hay and grass in the Mézenc area and that they are fattened during the last winter with natural mountain hay, produced locally: the famous Mézenc hay.
On the outskirts of the Monts d'Ardèche Regional Natural Park, we met Violaine, a breeder of Fin Gras du Mézenc heifers. Violaine is a passionate breeder, originally from the massif and whose farm is located in Le Béage, in Ardèche department. She owns 25 Aubrac, Limousin and Charolais cows and their offspring. In total, she raises 70 animals on 85 hectares of grassland, all of which is in organic agriculture. Violaine sells the male calves as grazers at 9-10 months and fattens an average of 5 heifers for Fin Gras appellation each year. Her biggest expenses are the 3 tons of cereals she buys annually and the straw for the animal's bedding. Everything else is a pure local product!
Photo. Violaine attaches great importance to the handling of her animals, which is evident in the docility of the suckled cows on pasture. Violaine has a free stall for her cows in winter, in comparison to traditional barns where they are tied up. Regular handling of the animals is the most important for Violaine because the free stall tends to make the animals more "wild" to humans.
The haying season was not over when we came on August 8th, the year was exceptionally rainy and the haymakings were logically delayed. Here the grass is mown only once a year and it is the hay from this mowing that will feed the Fin Gras during the winter. The high quality of the hay harvested on the massif is the key to the success of the Fin Gras. So when it comes to tedding, the breeders have no right to make mistakes! If the quality of the hay is good, the quality of next year's meat will be good too!
Every year Violaine, like all the PDO breeders, determines which animals she wants to send to the Fin Gras Appellation. She tells us that in reality, the selection of the animals to be fattened begins at birth. The most promising ones are identified very early by the breeder (this is what we call the breeder's eye!). An agent from the Fin Gras Association is then sent to visit the farms to check that the PDO standards are respected and to evaluate the quality of the animals (alive): muscular development, state of fattening and general presentation. Another evaluation will be carried out on the carcases at the slaughterhouse to determine the quality of the meat: fat distribution, color of external fat and tenderness. These are all standards that will allow the meat to be marketed under the PDO sign (or not).
About the breeders remuneration, on average the selling price of Fin Gras animals for last year was 5,85 €/kg (price paid to the breeder), it follows an increasing trend since 25 years. Most of the time, Fin Gras represents only one third of the animals on the farm but 50% of the turnover. The animals are sold either to butchers (40%) or to wholesalers (60%) who act as intermediaries between the farmer and the butcher, choosing the animals according to their beef conformation, sometimes from their first year of life.
The work carried out by the Fin Gras du Mézenc association to protect the breeding activity by obtaining the PDO has paid off. It has made it possible to halt the disappearance of farms on the massif (agricultural decline) and even to perpetuate the breeding, since young farmers are still setting up and the number of members of the association is constantly growing. Most sales today still take place at Easter time. The product is recognized in the region and even beyond, since even a butcher's shop in Ille et Vilaine department is now a member of the association and sells Fin Gras! Notice to fans ;-) (it is the Maison Favin in Saint-Lunaire)
Did you know ?
- In the Mézenc lived the Mézine
At the origin of Fin Gras, a cow: the Mézine. This rustic cow, with a fawn coat, was the race historically bred in the Massif du Mézenc. The Mézine had a maternal behaviour, docility and a quality meat. The breed was also extremely well adapted to the particular climate of the Massif. Having disappeared more than fifty years ago, the Mézine is an illustration of the "erosion of agricultural biodiversity in France" caused by the increasing establishment of more productive cattle breeds. It was the subject of a book written by Albert Roche: La Mézine - Adieu à la race bovine du Mézenc. Source Photo : Albert Roche
- From fodder to meat
Ten years passed between the first meetings of the Fin Gras association and the obtaining of the PDO. This fastidious work, carried out in partnership with the INRA in particular, made it possible to demonstrate the link between the terpene profiles of Mézenc hay and those of animal fats! Terpenes are a chemical family of volatile compounds specific to the plant world and whose plant food origin is certain. To put it simply, they are what give plants their odours and flavours and are ultimately found in Fin Gras meat.
- A home for the Fin Gras
In the small village of Chaudeyrolles is the Maison du Fin Gras. Alison, a member of the Association du Fin Gras du Mézenc, runs the Maison du Fin Gras, where she organises cultural activities around the PDO and welcomes visitors looking for information on this local speciality. We went there! Alison first led us to the Musée du Fin Gras, where we were given a guided tour of the history, hay, breeding and quality of the Mézenc meat, in pictures and videos (if you are passing by Chaudeyrolles, take a look!). After wandering through the Museum, we shared a moment of exchange with Alison, who made us discover the Fin Gras from every angle, so much so that we could write a book just for this speciality! It's hard to keep it short, even if we tried to be precise!
A good summary can be found in the document provided by the Musée du Fin Gras: "The success of Fin Gras lies in the desire of an entire territory to promote itself through a product that expresses its identity, history, landscapes, economy and solidarity. The breeders of the Mézenc represent a real community."
For more informations (in French) : http://www.aoc-fin-gras-du-mezenc.com/
- Mutual aid in the Massif
The Fin Gras du Mézenc breeders are a small community settled on a large territory. At first sight, the farms seem lost in the middle of immense pastures occupied by cattle. In reality, mutual aid and solidarity animate the breeders, who are often cut off from the world in winter. For Violaine, being united in times of happiness and difficulty is an essential criterion for the well-being of the breeders. Far from individualism, the Mézenc breeders help each other in times of physical or moral difficulty. They also get together at Easter time to exhibit the fruits of their labour and to exchange ideas between breeders at large cattle fairs.
- The hay tea
The quality of hay produced in the Massif du Mézenc is also a source of diversification: at the Maison du Fin Gras you will find a hay syrup to be consumed without moderation.
- Not all hairy animals are welcome !
The massif is populated by a large number of voles which destroy the meadows by eating the roots of the plants. To combat the voles that damage her meadows, Violaine has planted several hedges to provide shelter for birds of prey and ermines that will limit their proliferation. The hedges planting is supported by various organisations (Yves Rocher, EDF, Ligue de Protection des Oiseaux).