From North to South, from East to West, the smoke escaping from the chimneys of Poland leaves a pleasant smell of wood fire in the streets of the villages. It is winter and the olfactory atmosphere does not fool us. However, in the south of the country, this characteristic winter smell is also present in the mountains during the summer. In the Zakopane region, the summer period is dedicated to the production of Oscypek, a smoked cheese made from the milk of sheep and cows grazing in the high pastures.
Photo. The Tatras in January
At the foot of the Tatra Mountains, which mark the border with Slovakia, Oscypek is a long-time heritage. It has been made for thousands of years by the people living in these mountain ranges: the Gòrale (pronounced "Gouralé"), a people related to the Hutsuls we encountered in Ukraine. These two communities, separated by 400 km of mountains, have a common ancestor: the Vlachs. Several centuries ago, they settled along the Carpathian mountain range, from the Czech Republic in the east to Romania in the west. It is therefore natural that similar breeding practices are found in Zakopane, Poland and Rakhiv, Ukraine (compare for yourself by reading our article "Up there in the Ukrainian Carpathians"). These amusing similarities show us how the mountain people have maintained their traditions for thousands of years, regardless of the evolution of the people and practices around them.
The Gòrale are devoted mountain shepherds. The culture of the Gòrale is extremely rich: they speak their own dialect, have a unique architecture, ceremonial costumes, music and culinary practices closely linked to their agriculture. This strong identity, which is still very much in evidence, is the result of the fact that until the 19th century, the region was very isolated and the Gòrale lived in total autonomy. Today, the contemporary shepherds follow the same rhythm as their ancestors, raising sheep and cows. Two major annual events set the pace for their work: on Saint George's Day (23 April), the flocks are taken to the high pastures and on Saint Michael's Day (29 September), the flocks return to the valley. These crucial dates for the Gòrale shepherds, called "Redyk", bring together the flocks and the inhabitants in noisy festivities. We are told that on Saint George's Day, when the sheep go up to the mountain pastures, the Sanctuary of Our Lady Queen of Podhale in Ludzmierz welcomes thousands of sheep: "It is a great event that brings together many people in the valley, the square behind the sanctuary is then filled with sheep, it is very difficult to get on with all these bleating animals !" The sheep are prayed for and blessed before being led up to the mountains for the summer.
Photo. Sanctuary of Our Lady Queen of Podhale in Ludzmierz in January
On Saint George's Day, the Redyk, which announces the transhumance to the mountains, is also the moment when the owners of the flocks pass the torch: the ewes are put in the hands of the "Baca" (pronounced Batsa), who makes the cheese in the Bacowka: the traditional hut of the Górale shepherds in the mountain pastures. As with the Hutsuls in Ukraine, during the months spent in the mountains, everyone has a role to play. The Baca, who is the chief shepherd, is responsible for the flock of several hundred sheep and some cows. He is accompanied by the Juhas (shepherds), who lead the herd into the mountains, milk ewes and assist the Baca in making Oscypek. Milking is done by hand and the milk is then processed into cheese in the Bacowka. The fresh milk collected in the morning and evening is first curdled by adding rennet. Part of the curd is hung in a large cloth to drain and produce "Budz" (fresh cheese). Another part is mixed with hot water to make the curd elastic. This is followed by an hour of handling the curds, adding hot water and pressing them so that the shepherds obtain a soft mass, which they then place in ornamented cylindrical or spindle-shaped wooden moulds. It is at this point that the Oscypek, decorated with traditional Vlach forms, expresses its identity. The taste of the Oscypek only becomes apparent after several hours of exposure to the thick smoke produced by the birch wood fire in the Bacowka. This two-room wooden hut has a permanently burning fireplace, which is watched over by the Baca. On this fireplace, water is first heated to make Oscypek. Then the whey from the cheese making process is heated to produce sour milk, which is consumed by the shepherds during the four months at altitude. Finally, the Oscypek are stored on top of the fire and smoked. A multifunctional fire, whose primary task is to heat and feed the shepherds who live in the Bacowka during the five long summer months.
Photo. The interior of the Bacowka is divided into two rooms: the shepherd's room and the living room, where the cheese is made. Under the blackened wooden roof, Oscypeks are stored on small shelves for smoking.
Wojtek is a Baca from the Podhale region. He opened the doors of his sheepfold in the village of Ratulow to us. Wojtek and his son have a flock of 200 sheep. They raise two breeds of sheep native to the region: the Tzakel sheep and the Polish mountain sheep. The former, which is only white, gives more milk, while the latter uses more energy to produce wool, but is nonetheless suitable for producing Oscypek. Between two puffs of brown tobacco, Wojtek elaborates: "The Polish mountain sheep is also more fearful of humans. They are less confident because the wool that grows in front of their eyes obstructs their vision." On Wojtek's farm, the life expectancy of the sheep, whatever the breed, is 15 years without any problems, a good life in short. Wolf attacks are very localized in the region. Wojtek is not confronted with them, nor with bear attacks, which only passes by. Perhaps the Podhale sheepdogs that accompany his herd in the mountains have something to do with it.
Photos from left to right. 1. Tzakel ewe. 2. Lamb Tzakel. 3. Polish mountain sheep. 4. Podhale shepherd dog. 5. Podhale shepherd puppy raised with the flock in the sheepfold
In January, Wojtek's and his son's sheep are in their respective sheepfolds. Their heads pass between the wooden bars to sink into the green hay cut last summer in the surrounding meadows. It is the beginning of the lambing period and some newborns discover their environment on frail legs. The lambs will be raised until four months under their mothers, before they start their long escapade in altitude. Today is one of the only shearing days of the year. Shearing takes place twice a year and requires the arrival of a professional shearer with his equipment. A local company buys the wool at a price of 20 Zlotys (4,3€) per kilo to produce an insulation for the houses. A small price, certainly, but at least it is not burned or simply thrown away as often in Europe, for lack of an outlet.
Photo. The sheep wait their turn to be sheared
Wojtek, as a Baca, is responsible for 600 sheep during the summer, which he takes to the pasture around his Bacowka, between 700 and 1000 meters above sea level: his own sheep, of course, and those of his son, but also a good number of sheep belonging to other owners in the valley. The large herd of sheep is accompanied by a small group of hardy cows, which also give their milk for the production of Oscypek. During the summer season, he produces Oscypek with a small number of shepherds that he employs to watch over the flock. He sells his products to hikers passing through Bacowka, but also on the market in Zakopane and in some restaurants.
The outlets are sufficient for Wojtek, who sells his cheeses much faster than he produces them! Yes, Oscypek is a very popular cheese. So popular, that more than a third of Oscypek producers do not see the need to declare themselves under the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin). It is also so popular that despite the PDO, Oscypek is subject to imitations. While the authentic Oscypek is a seasonal highland cheese, produced from a mixture of cow's and sheep's milk, smoked in the Bacowka from May to September and in a small area (4 districts), its name is abusively used to sell an "all-public" cheese, produced all year round in the valley, exclusively from cow's milk. We are warned: "If you are offered Oscypek in a restaurant at this time of year, you can be sure that it is not the real Oscypek. The real Oscypek is bought directly from the Bacowka, and in any case, few are the real Oscypeks that come down to the valley, since they are purchased before in the mountains.
Wojtek is generous. From his personal collection in his house, he brings us a real Oscypek produced in the mountain. He doesn't need to count on his fingers: this one is four months old... and it is delicious. We felt very privileged to be able to taste it in January!
Photos. Oscypek. Sources : Fondation SlowFood ; Goral.pl
Did you know?
- The game of 7 differences: Gòrale (Poland) / Hutsuls (Ukraine)
Difference #1 : Among the Gòrale, the person in charge of the herd at high altitude is called Baca (pronounced "Batsa"). Among the Hutsuls, he is called Vatah (pronounced "Vatar")
Difference #2: In the Gòrale, the Baca is not paid to look after the sheep in the mountains. He sells the cheese himself. In the Hutsuls, the owners of the sheep pay the Vatar and get the fresh cheese produced in the mountain in return.
Difference #3: In the Gòrale, the transhumance of the flocks is announced during the Redyk. In the Hutsuls, the transhumance is announced during the Mira festival.
Difference #4: In the Gòrale, the highland farm is called Bacowka. In the Hutsuls, the highland farm is called Polonyna.
Difference #5: In the Gòrale, the home in the Bacowka is called "Watra". Among the Hutsuls, the home in the highland farm is called "Vatra".
Difference n°6: Among the Gòrale, the finished cheese (Oscypek) is produced in the mountains, in the Bacowka. Among the Hustuls, the finished cheese (Bryndza) is produced in the valley, from the fresh cheese produced in the Polonyna. But the Gòrale also produce a "Bryndza" !
Difference #7: In the Gòrale, whey is boiled to produce "żętyca". In the Hutsuls, the whey is boiled to produce the "vurda".
- Who are the Vlachs (or Wallachians)?
The Vlachs are the inhabitants of Wallachia, which is the southern region of Romania. Historically (before Romania became a state), the term "Vlach" referred to the Roman-speaking inhabitants. The dissemination of Vlach culture through pastoralism and nomadism in the mountains of Central Europe led to other definitions of the term "Vlach", depending on the country. By shortcut, "Vlach" therefore also designates the shepherd (or the mountain dweller) in many neighboring countries of Romania (Bulgaria, Croatia, Serbia, Bosnia, Slovakia...)!
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